foversta
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Salon Belles Montres 2013: Girard-Perregaux
A few days before Baselworld and the unveiling of the 2014 novelties, I would like to come back to the Girard-Perregaux exhibition which took place at the Salon Belles Montres in Paris in November 2013. Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD were amongst the main exhibitors. This report will focus only on the GP pieces since I already presented the JEANRICHARD important watch which was presented in Paris, the LE Terrascope dedicated to the French Rugby Club, the Racing Club de France here:
www.watchprosite.com
I always like to visit this kind of exhibitions because, even if they rarely display for the first time a brand new watch, they give a good overview of the current collection and of the strategy of the brand. With the Belles Montres exhibition, Girard-Perregaux wished to highlight the expertise and the skills of the Manufacture thanks to the presence of a watchmaker... and of the flag-bearer of the collection, the Constant Escapement LM (Luigi Macaluso).
Actually, as you can see it for at least 2 years now, Girard-Perregaux communication has focused more and more about the fact that the watches come from one of the most integrated manufactures in the world, putting under the spotlights its young watchmakers. It is very important for Girard-Perregaux to achieve this strategic communication because the brand, even if it is a well-known name in the world of watch fans is maybe not perceived as a manufacture of the same level than some others... which is a pity. The problem for Girard-Perregaux is the lack of an "affordable" iconic watch. Currently, the most famous GP movement and distinctive aesthetic detail is the Tourbillon with 3 gold bridges. The issue is that it is not a watch which can be purchased by anybody. Girard-Perregaux obviously works a lot on this topic by building a credible permanent collection which has been simplified to make it more visible.
The permanent collection, if we don't consider the high horology segment is based on 4 pillars: Hawk, 1966, 1945 and the latest one, the Traveller.
The purpose of this report is to give you a quick view on these 4 lines without forgetting of course the high-horology segment.
Let's start with a view on the booth. As you can see it, its lay-out was designed to give the largest space available to the workbench: the visitors had to easily see the watchmaker at work.
And he was not working on a mere watch, he was working on the Constant Escapement movement:
The watch won the Aiguille d'Or a few days before, so it was a great opportunity for Girard-Perregaux to explain to the visitors the reasons behind the prize, mainly the technical breakthrough:
The basic principle of the Constant Escapement is at the end easy to explain even if the watch is very complex to develop and to produce. The watchmaker was able to use a movement created for demonstration purpose to explain how to achieve these constant amplitude and rates despite a very powerful double-barrel:
Dial side the visitors could easily see the unusual shape of the silicon escapement spring, the nickel levers and wheels. But the most important part is almost invisible... it is the central silicon blade which is 14 microns thick! If you play with a card or a metro ticket with your fingers, you can easily make it create curved shapes which are oriented alternatively inward and outward. The blade works the same way.
The balance wheel is behind the scene and if in a classic watch the prominent parts are the balance wheel and the spiral while the escapement is almost hidden, with this watch it is totally the opposite!
Dial side the visitors could easily see the unusual shape of the silicon escapement spring, the nickel levers and wheels. But the most important part is almost invisible... it is the central silicon blade which is 14 microns thick! If you play with a card or a metro ticket with your fingers, you can easily make it create curved shapes which are oriented alternatively inward and outward. The blade works the same way.
The balance wheel is behind the scene and if in a classic watch the prominent parts are the balance wheel and the spiral while the escapement is almost hidden, with this watch it is totally the opposite!
Movement side, the two barrels and the balance wheel become the more distinguishable parts:
Watching the movement only is fun but it works in the context of a watch and this watch has to be coherent with its movement.
It is the case with the Constant Escapement LE.
Clearly, the dial with its tiny (but legible) off-centered time display was designed to create enough space for the escapement. Even the two barrels are visible dial side. Power and delicate behaviour blend...
It is the case with the Constant Escapement LE.
Clearly, the dial with its tiny (but legible) off-centered time display was designed to create enough space for the escapement. Even the two barrels are visible dial side. Power and delicate behaviour blend...
The watch offers a mesmerizing show thanks to the nickel wheels, the blade... and of course the escapement itself. I will not forget the central second hand which also nicely animates the dial.
My only point of concern is related to the incabloc: I would have made it less visible.
My only point of concern is related to the incabloc: I would have made it less visible.
The case is large (48mm) but again... a smaller size would have been a pity. And the escapement by itself requires such size! In its location, it is not that far from the bezel edges. You notice the shape of the bridges inspired by the typical bridges of the brand: a mix of modernity and of classicism!
On the back, the watch is as spectacular and creates the same hypnotizing effect!
I had the chance to wear this watch several times during the second half of the year and it created me the same feelings. It is large but wearable and each time I quickly forgot the large case to enjoy the different animations on the dial!
Let's jump to a totally opposite world now with the Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland.
I will be frank with you: I'm not a great fan of the Hawk line. But the Hollywoodland is for me one of its most interesting pieces. Simply because it is maybe the most achieved aesthetically speaking.
I appreciate the combo created with the black ceramic case and the pink gold bezel.
The black colour of the case contributes to reduce the feeling of size of the case. With a 44mm diameter and a rather large thickness (15,45mm), the Chrono Hawk is a bulky piece. But hopefully, it looks a bit smaller than it is actually.
I will be frank with you: I'm not a great fan of the Hawk line. But the Hollywoodland is for me one of its most interesting pieces. Simply because it is maybe the most achieved aesthetically speaking.
I appreciate the combo created with the black ceramic case and the pink gold bezel.
The black colour of the case contributes to reduce the feeling of size of the case. With a 44mm diameter and a rather large thickness (15,45mm), the Chrono Hawk is a bulky piece. But hopefully, it looks a bit smaller than it is actually.
The large hands and indexes improve the readability... and more importantly, balance the overall design.
The movement is based on the GP3300 which powers the chronograph module. It features a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 46 hours. The picture below displays the new winding rotor decoration style we find again inside several watches of the collection:
Despite its size, it is a very comfortable watch to wear thanks to an efficient rubber strap. I like the way the pink gold bezel litterally pop up!
I already described with a lot of details the Traveller case when I presented the Traveller Moon Phase and Large Date :
gp.watchprosite.com
The second watch to take advantage of the new Traveller case is the WW.TC with its usual worldtimer and chronograph combo.
And with such worldtimer complication, the Traveller case finds the perfect complication to explain its name!
gp.watchprosite.com
The second watch to take advantage of the new Traveller case is the WW.TC with its usual worldtimer and chronograph combo.
And with such worldtimer complication, the Traveller case finds the perfect complication to explain its name!
The Traveller case has a 44mm diameter which is large if we consider the purpose of these watches. But at least, due to the worldtimer complication, it allows to a balanced dial, not too small, not too big due to the numerous data on it:
We are in a similar context than with the Chrono Hawk. The watch features a GP3300 base which powers the module. But the most important detail on this picture is not related to the movement but to the shape of the lugs. They are long and very curved...
... and so, despite the large diameter, the case is well positioned on the wrist which is good news!
I think that at the end, I would have preferred a smaller case around let's say 42mm. I was actually a bit surprised to see Girard-Perregaux presenting last year a 44mm case in the overall context of the control of the case sizes and due to the own diameters of the GP movements. But I have to confess that the Traveller case is much more comfortable than expected.
The WW.TC Traveller is my fav Traveller watch:
I think that at the end, I would have preferred a smaller case around let's say 42mm. I was actually a bit surprised to see Girard-Perregaux presenting last year a 44mm case in the overall context of the control of the case sizes and due to the own diameters of the GP movements. But I have to confess that the Traveller case is much more comfortable than expected.
The WW.TC Traveller is my fav Traveller watch:
This Vintage 1945 XXL is also one of my fav Girard-Perregaux watches because the combo between the big date display and the moonphases display works very well.
The applied figures bring a refined touch and improve the perceived quality of this elegant watch, even if I find it a bit too large for a rectangular - almost squared piece (36,1 x 35,25mm):
The applied figures bring a refined touch and improve the perceived quality of this elegant watch, even if I find it a bit too large for a rectangular - almost squared piece (36,1 x 35,25mm):
The slight contrast of the colours of the two figures of the big date gives a hint about the trick... but this big date system is close to perfection:
Once again, this watch uses the GP3300 as a base which powers the module. You notice the different decoration style of the winding rotor:
A very elegant watch on the wrist... elegant but not so delicate! Look at the lugs: they give a lot of personality to the case... if not a powerful design! A watch I highly appreciate.
The curved case explains why the watch is comfortable on the wrist:
I would like to finish the report with the 1966 column-wheel chronograph.
This watch is a very classic handwind chronograph featuring the new integrated chronograph movement, the GP3800:
This watch is a very classic handwind chronograph featuring the new integrated chronograph movement, the GP3800:
It is obviously a great pleasure for the Girard-Perregaux fans to discover an integrated chronograph movement especially when it is a handwind one! Actually, I found it totally coherent with the spirit of the 1966 chronograph pieces which are true homage to the classic chronographs of the past.
But the problem is the size of the GP3800 movement: 26,2mm is a rather modest diameter in today context. So even if the watch is not that big (40mm), the movement looks a bit too small for the case:
It is nicely decorated without any excessive effect and I could enjoy its classic lay-out. Don't expect here innovative features. The GP3800 is a symbol of very traditional watchmaking. The good news is its quite large power reserve (56 hours) for a 4hz chronograph.
The size of the movement and the location of the date window make me think that the GP3800 would be perfect in a 38mm case chronograph without a date display!
I know that a date is important for a lot of clients but the targetted customers are here more collectors. When you unveil a handwing movement, you already know that the objective is not to reach a large audience. So why not go even further by removing the date and reducing the case size? The watch would become... close to perfection.
I know that a date is important for a lot of clients but the targetted customers are here more collectors. When you unveil a handwing movement, you already know that the objective is not to reach a large audience. So why not go even further by removing the date and reducing the case size? The watch would become... close to perfection.
Don't get me wrong: the current version of the 1966 Chronograph powered by the GP3800 is a very well-made watch. The dial is full of subtle details with several layers and nice applied indexes. But I think that the result could have been even better. Anyway, the most important is to have the feeling that the 1966 line is on the right tracks!
High Horology with the Constant Escapement watch, Hawk, Traveller, 1945 and 1966... I wished to give you one example per line of the current diversity of the Girard-Perregaux collection. During the Salon Belles Montres, I could once again "touch" the strengths of the Manufacture and also some rooms for improvement. At the end, the most important is to feel that thanks to the work done by Michele Sofisti and his team, the brand (and also its sister, JEANRICHARD) and the manufacture have a clear strategy and a dynamic impulse. The rationalization of the collections is the one of the most visible sides of the strategic plan and I'm sure that within a few days we will be very positively impressed by the 2014 collection.
Thanks a lot to the Girard-Perregaux team for the warm welcome.
Fx
Thanks a lot to the Girard-Perregaux team for the warm welcome.
Fx
This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-03-22 02:41:23
Salon Belles Montres 2013: Girard-Perregaux
A few days before Baselworld and the unveiling of the 2014 novelties, I would like to come back to the Girard-Perregaux exhibition which took place at the Salon Belles Montres in Paris in November 2013. Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD were amongst the ma...
Thank you for this recap, Fx! :)
Yes, in a few days we will see what GP have for us this year! :) Best Blomman
Interesting article. I think it would be even more interesting to explain why a Constant
Escapement is Superior to a Force Constant ala Lange, or Breguet. That is, IMO, the most important thing when we discuss this Watch. Thanks, Fx. Nicolas
To make a long story short...
and it is my way of thinking not an official answer! It is a question of role. The constant force controls the energy which will power the escapement in order to make this flow of energy as stable as possible; it acts downstream. The behaviour of the esca...
