Girard Perregaux

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A Look at Two Girard-Perregaux Dual Time Watches

Girard-Perregaux has put two new oh-so-different takes on a dual time watch into its collection this year, and there is a lot to like about each of them!

I’ll start with the more classic look of the 1966 Dual Time, reference 49545.

This watch takes its inspiration from the classic round watches of the 1966 collection, and like all its cousins in that collection, is only offered in a precious metal 18K rose gold case. The case is 40 mm in diameter, and with a well proportioned thickness that gives it a nice presence on the wrist:

The dial, however, breaks away from the more conservative look of most of the 1966 watches, with a bold red hand to indicate home time on the 24 hour scale, itself in a highly contrasting gray ring to set itself apart from the classic silver dial.  There is depth to the dial as well, with the 24-hour ring on a higher plane than the silver outer dial, and the date dial higher still and nicely framed with a gold ring. Quick setting of the date is done via a recessed pin pusher on the side of the case at 7 o’clock.

Like the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time watches, I especially appreciate the user friendly nature of adjusting to new time zones. One need only push the button at 2 o’clock to advance the local time, or push the button at 4 o’clock to reverse the time. No need to mess with the crown!

The movement is based on Girard-Perregaux’s manufacture 3300 movement, and is visible through the sapphire case back:

Retail value on this watch at the time of this writing is $26,300.

( Be sure to also read foversta’s review of the 1966 Dual Time: gp.watchprosite.com )

Girard-Perregaux brought out an updated Traveller watch last year, but this year added the useful and much-desired second time zone function (replacing the power reserve indicator on the dial of the inaugural model), and the new reference 49655 has large date, moon phase, and GMT (There is also a world time with chronograph)

The Traveller watches have a more casual look compared with the 1966 collection, blending sport and elegance in one attractive package. The rose gold case is 44 mm in diameter, and has a nice mix of satin and polished surfaces.

The downward slope of the lugs makes for a good fit on the wrist:

The dial is sportier, with a globe pattern etched into the dial, bold luminous hands, and a starry night sky as the background for the moon display. 

The GMT hand is in the overlapping small dial at 4 o’clock, and it is adjusted only forward by the push button on the side of the case at 4 o’clock. I would have preferred that this subdial indicate home time while the button would advance or reverse the hour hand on the main dial, as in the 1966 above.

The 3300 is the base for the Traveller as well, though I like the rotor design it shares with the Hawk:

Retail value on the Traveller Big Date, Moon Phase, GMT is $31,600 at the time of this writing, and comes with a deployant buckle compared with the pin buckle on the 1966 Dual Time.

(GP Forum Moderator blomman gave a nice overview of the Traveller here: gp.watchprosite.com )

Bill

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