Girard Perregaux

blomman Mr Blue
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Pre-Basel 2015: GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon in White Gold – Live shots and a personal view

Friends,

As you know I got to take some live shots of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon in White Gold. Reference 99815-53-153-BA6A.

I would like to share a personal view on this new watch.

To start with: This is not a watch for everybody or everyone. This is a watch for a very few selected individuals.

Not only due to its price point or the fact that this is a Limited Edition of only ten pieces. If that was not enough, this is also a watch that requires you to mentally overcome the size!

The White Gold case holds the massive size of 48 mm in diameter! On paper that is huge!

When we saw the Tri-Axial Tourbillon in Pink Gold last year, many of us, me included reacted on the size.

I have an 18.5 cm wrist and yes it wears big, but not huge.

Since last year I have been thinking a lot about these high-end “monsters” and have come to the following conclusion: if this was my watch, I would not wear it as an everyday watch. I would wear it on special occasions or at home just kicking around, admiring the revolving Tri-Axial Tourbillon…

So, if this is the case, why would I mind a big size? Honestly, on any of these “special occasions” I would probably want the watch to show (or I would have picked another more discreet watch)!

When I am home just doing nothing except admiring this beauty… Well, then the size really doesn’t matter… My eyesight is getting poorer by the years, so big is actually a good thing!

Would it be possible to make this watch in a smaller diameter? Yes it would.

The movement size is “only” 36.10 mm in diameter, so in theory it should be possible to make a 41 - 43 mm version with the same movement.

If it is possible, why doesn’t Girard-Perregaux do it? I didn’t have the chance to ask Mr. Steffano when we meet very shortly the other day, but I suspect one of the reasons is what I just stated above: This is not a watch for everybody!

This actually reminds me of GP’s old slogan: “Watches for the few”…

A second reason (still only my personal speculation) is due to the proportions.

Yes, the movement is “only” 36.10 mm in diameter, BUT it is 16.83 mm thick (the Tourbillon cage is 13.78 mm). To make a good looking watch in let’s say 42 mm in diameter, it would require GP to make the movement thinner making the bubble on the crystal even more pronounced to make room for the Tri-Axial Tourbillon to keep the proportions between the diameter and thickness the watch have now…

OK, enough about the size, let’s have a look at the dial.

The new dial is brighter and more welcoming than the previous grey dial on the Pink gold version. But it is not only the color that has been changed; the new dial has a see-through vertical grid showing more of the movement inside. Also the power reserve indicator is more open and is given some “air”.

When I saw this piece in the real I got the impression that the opening around the Tri-Axial Tourbillon was larger on the White Gold version but GP confirmed that that’s not the case. Both versions have the same measurements on the opening.

The Pink Gold details on the dial give a very nice contrast against the silver dial, not too little, not too much …

The “side view window” is still there letting you get a glimpse of the Tourbillon…

This view gives you a very good understanding of how well this watch will “huge” your wrist. Even if big, it wears much smaller…

Look at these sexy lugs! So powerful!

You are also able to see the different angles of the bezel that in photos from above may come out as quite flat is in fact a three level bezel.

If we turn the watch over and have a look at the back…

As I mentioned in my initial report, GP made a change on the main plate. Instead of one covering the complete movement there is now three plates. My initial thought of the two black plates being rhodium treated was wrong, they are PVD coated.

Of course, this side can’t compete with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon… But still I find this side very pleasant to look at!

The Pink Gold bridges in contrast to the black PVD is very nice.

On the wrist: oh yes, I could live with this feeling!

Personally, last year I think GP made very good watch with the Tri-Axial in Pink Gold, this year I think GP made a great watch with the Tri-Axial in White Gold! All the subtle changes add up to a much more open and welcoming watch, IMO.

Once you overcome that this is a watch not for everyday use… You will appreciate even more!

Best

Blomman

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