Girard Perregaux

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Girard-Perregaux's Blue Dial Vintage 1945 XXL Small Seconds

There is something irresistible to me about a blue dial on a watch. Most blue dials are to be found on sport watches: the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner in 18K/SS with blue bezel; the Omega Seamaster 300M; or in high end watches the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph or Breguet Marine. It is rarer to see a blue dial on a dress watch, and this is one reason why both the Girard-Perregaux stainless steel Vintage 1945 XXL Small Seconds and the rose gold Vintage 1966, so well photographed by Jaques-Oliver in this forum, appeal to me. 

The Vintage 1945 takes its inspiration from the design of Girard-Perregaux’s reference 5420 from (surpirse) 1945, which itself was inspired by Art Deco stylings. It beautifully blends the rectangular form with curved lines. Consistent across all models in the Vintage 1945 collection (Ref 25835 Date and Small Seconds; 25880 XXL Small Seconds; 25882 Large Date and Moon-Phase; and 25883 XXL Chronograph) is the curved case:

Note also that the crystal is curved to follow the lines of the case. 

So too the dial (note the small seconds have a deeper recess near the center of the dial, tapering to the 6):

Finally, even the Dauphine hands are curved to fit the shape of the dial.

And it is the dial that makes this watch sing to me! The blue is rich in tone, and the combination of applied Arabic markers, curvature, white printing of the outer railroad minute track and brand signature, and the recessed small seconds give it an visually arresting quality. I also appreciate the vertical satin finish, hard to capture in photos of the blue dial, but quite clear (and also attractive) with the silver dial, which enhances the vintage feel of the watch.

Perfectly contemporary, however, is the size of the watch. The case measures 36.20 mm in length and 35.25 mm in width, excluding the horn lugs. Like with the vintage models on which it is based, the crown is slightly recessed into the side of the case. The gadroons between the case and lugs make the watch really stand out:

The curvature of the case makes the watch comfortably hug the wrist, and the blue alligator strap compliments the dial perfectly. (A stainless steel bracelet is an option, but not one that I find to be as attractive as the alligator strap)

Inside the case, which Girard-Perregaux makes in-house, is the manufacture caliber GP3330. This thin workhorse of a movement is nicely finished and they oscillating rotor spins freely to keep the power reserve up to its stated 46 hours. 

Girard-Perregaux has been making excellent watches in the Vintage 1945 collection ever since it was launched in 1995, but I can’t remember the collection, from top to bottom, ever being as compelling as it is right now. If you are a fan of blue dial watches the Vintage 1945 is well worth your consideration.

Bill

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